Kampong Ayer : Venice of East

 

Brunei, officially the Nation of Brunei, the Abode of Peace is a country located on the north coast of the island of Borneo in Southeast Asia. Apart from its South China Sea coast, it is completely surrounded by the Malaysian state of Sarawak. It is separated into two parts by the Sarawak district of Limbang. Brunei is the only sovereign state entirely on Borneo; the remainder of the island is divided between Malaysia and Indonesia. As of 2020, its population was 460,345, of whom about 100,000 live in the capital and largest city, Bandar Seri Begawan. The government is an absolute monarchy ruled by its Sultan, entitled the Yang di-Pertuan, and implements a combination of English common law and sharia law, as well as general Islamic practices.

Kampong Ayer is a prominent traditional settlement in Bandar Seri Begawan, the capital of Brunei. It comprises neighbourhoods of traditional houses, schools and mosques built on stilts above the Brunei River near the capital's city centre. It has an area of about 10 square kilometres (3.9 sq mi); the total population was 10,250 in 2016.It has been historically nicknamed 'Venice of the East'. Kampong Ayer has been historically the principal settlement of Brunei; it was the de facto capital, in particular social and economic centre, of the Bruneian Empire for a few centuries, but also extending into the early period during British imperialism in Brunei.

Luckily, Kampong Ayer is just an affordable water taxi away from the Bandar Seri Begawan city center. The primary water taxi jetty is on the river bank just in front of the Yayasan Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah shopping mall. Crossing from here to Kampong Ayer costs only 1 Brunei Dollar one way. The trip is short - you can distinctly see Kampong Ayer from the city center. There is no need to ask a boatman to wait on you for the return trip, as many boats are available.

If you want to go from one point of Kampong Ayer to another point further down, just go to the nearest jetty and wait for a boat to arrive. There are many jetties around Kampong Ayer’s perimeter, so there will always been one close by. Just keep walking on the boardwalk until you see the next turn. Jetties are labeled and numbered. You can also hire the driver to take you through the village - twisting and turning between stilts and under bridges

Houses in Kampong Ayer are built on stilts above the water. They are traditionally made of wood and adopt the style of traditional Malay houses. The houses may be up to two-storey high. Majority are built privately, thus may have individual style, whereas some which have been built under the public housing initiatives (notably those in Kampong Bolkiah and the houses under the pilot rejuvenation project in Kampong Lurong Sikuna) have a more uniform style akin to housing estates on land.

Kampong Ayer has an extensive network of walkways on stilts and pedestrian bridges connecting the houses and other buildings. They are built of wood, concrete or with metal stilts. For neighbourhoods without connecting walkways due to being separated by wide waterways, mobility is done by motorboats. The boats are usually made of wood and in traditional local style, but installed with engines. They are commonly known as perahu tambang (translated as 'water taxis') as trips are charged with fares similar to car taxis. The boats may also transport passengers between the land and the neighbourhoods not on the riverbanks.Common utilities may include electricity, pipe water, telephone lines, internet access and television services. As of 2017, fixed wireless has been made available with the speed of up to 100Mbps. It has been implemented to eliminate the difficulty of house-to-house installation and overcome frequent internet cable theft.

Other public facilities include mosques, police stations and fire departments. Fire cases are common in Kampong Ayer, in which the reported main causes include faulty wiring and susceptibility of the buildings to fire due to many being built of wood.

As a major historical and cultural heritage of Brunei, there has been increasing concern on the survival of Kampong Ayer in modern times. This is factored by the emigration and relocation of the inhabitants to land. Over the last few decades, the overall population has been shrinking, estimated to have decreased from about 28,000 in 1981 to 13,000 in 2011. The diminishing population, added with the busy modern lifestyle, are threatening the survival of the customs and traditions practiced in Kampong Ayer. It also weakens the sense of community among the residents.

Here are some tips for Asian Destinations Readers when you come to Kampong Ayer

·      Kampong Ayer has its own museum, called the Kampong Ayer Cultural & Tourism Gallery. The museum provides context on the village’s history and traditional customs. Expect to spend 20-30 minutes here.

·      Take a Brunei River Mangrove Tour to explore the mangrove forest and see proboscis monkeys, crocodiles and Istana Nurul Iman, the world’s largest residential palace! You can either take this tour as an add-on to your visit to Kampong Ayer or as a separate trip. To read about the Brunei River Mangrove Tour, click here.

·      Apart from the museum, the water village does not particularly cater to tourists. Eat before leaving the city or bring some food with you. Remember to dress conservatively, as you are entering a functioning village where people live.

·      Feel free to request your driver (for a few extra BND) to drive you through the village’s stilts and under its bridges. You’ll get some unique angles that you’d otherwise miss if you only stayed on the boardwalk.

·      Watch your step on the boardwalk. While generally safe, there are a few broken planks.

·      For the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to spend a night or two in the world’s largest water village, check out Airbnb.com.

 

Sources :

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brunei

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kampong_Ayer

https://trvlguides.com/articles/kampong-ayer#howtogettokampongayer

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